How to Install Iron Or Metal Balusters in Wood Handrails

As promised I am putting forward information on the installation of iron balusters. During the day, one of the most common questions I get from customers is the how to of iron baluster installation.

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Many building codes require three balusters on a tread to comply with the 4" sphere rule. Check with your local code officials if you have any doubts about your stair's compliance.

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First, I let the customer know that the very last thing in balustrade installation is the iron balusters. It simply works well to install the newel posts, handrail, treads and risers first. Once installed layout the balusters on the floor and use a level to plumb up to the handrail center and mark the connection at the center bottom of the handrail. Using a ½" paddle or spade bit one can drill upward 1" deep into the handrail. Using a 5/8" paddle bit drill a hole no more than ¼" deep into the floor. Once these are drilled out the bottom of the handrail can be sanded with an orbital sander and the complete balustrade system can be stained and finished. Once the stain and finish is completed one can begin installing the iron balusters.

One of the following two tools is recommended for cutting iron or metal balusters: a power miter box with a metal cutting blade, or a portable band saw. My preference is the portable band saw. It works cleaner, is more portable, and doesn't cause sparking as does the power miter box (or chop saw).

Turn the baluster upside down and set the round dowel top into the hole in the floor, holding the baluster plumb to the hole under the handrail. Mark the baluster with a pencil, measure up 3/8" minimum and that would be the cut mark. Note that you are cutting off the bottom, not the top, of the baluster. This ensures proper alignment of the design elements.

For gluing the installer has two options: Epoxy or construction adhesive. My personal preference is construction adhesive as I have more control over the product and, if it gets messy, wipes away easily and can also serve as a caulk around the iron. Epoxy comes in the mixing tubes and doesn't always mix properly. If it gets messy and dried, removing the epoxy also removes the powder coating on the iron. Some carpenters prefer and have their own control over epoxy. I do not. I find construction adhesives easier to work with.

Squeeze a small amount of the adhesive into the hole under the handrail. The adhesive is thick and slow and will not drain back out, giving time to complete the installation. Make sure the shoe for the iron baluster is slid up while installing. Push baluster's round dowel up into the ½" hole under the handrail and then drop it into the 5/8" hole in the floor in a bed of additional construction adhesive. Square off the baluster's alignment then drop the shoe down to the floor. If the shoe comes with a set screw, use an Allen wrench to tighten it. The glue in the handrail hole will settle around the baluster creating a perfect seal. Once the glue has dried the baluster will be well secured, even helping to strengthen the handrails load.

When installing 5/8" iron balusters the process is identical, one only needs to drill a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. 5/8" iron is ideal in remodeling work, when replacing wood balusters. Most installed wood balusters have a 5/8" hole under the handrail and a ¾" hole at the floor. If replacing wood balusters with ½" iron it is usually recommended to install shoes under the handrail to cover a small square peg in a larger round hole. The use of wood or cabinet screws helps to lock the baluster in, serving as both a wedge and forcing the baluster on center.

Round 5/8" iron or metal balusters can be installed without shoes simply by drilling a 5/8" hole into the handrail and into the floor and following the same procedure outlined above.

I have been asked about making the holes square. It is possible with a little more work. To cut the square hole in the floor or handrail, drill a round hole in the wood the same size at the baluster's overall width. Then chisel out the hole to make it square. Another option is a "mortising bit." I have not used one of these but have spoken with carpenters who have. Their comment tends to be that this method is a "pain in the you know what."

How to Install Iron Or Metal Balusters in Wood Handrails
Miter Saw Blade

Christmas Sales Freud D1244X Diablo 12-Inch 44 Tooth ATB General Purpose Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor 201

Dec 17, 2011 03:34:50

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Freud D1244X Diablo 12-Inch 44 Tooth ATB General Purpose Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor

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Super thin laser cut kerf (small diameter blades only) provides faster, cleaner, more exacting cuts. Perma Shield coating shields blade against heat, gumming, and corrosion. Durable micrograin titanium carbide tipped teeth are impact resistant to hold their edge longer. Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration and stabilize blade. Laser cut heat expansion slots reduce heat and blade warp. Tri metal shock resistant brazing for stronger carbide teeth.
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Christmas Sales Freud D1244X Diablo 12-Inch 44 Tooth ATB General Purpose Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Specifications

For a highly versatile blade that makes clean cuts in a broad variety of wood types, look no further than the Freud D1244X Diablo 12-Inch General Purpose Saw Blade. This is your go-to blade for slicing through oak, pine, plywood, pressure-treated lumber, and beams. Ideal for a wide variety of applications, this blade reduces the need to change blades between tasks. For strong, long-lasting resistance, the blade features a tough steel plate and high-density carbide tips.




Model #D1244X
Diameter12"
Machine UseMiter & Slide Miter Saw
ApplicationGeneral Purpose
Teeth40 ATB
(Alternate-Top Bevel)
Arbor1"
Kerf.098"
Hook Angle15°
Makes Clean Cuts in a Wide Variety of Wood
Achieving premium results when performing any kind of woodworking is all about clean, accurate cuts. The Freud D1244X makes this process easy, fast, and precise. An added time-saving feature, its general-purpose versatility will let you employ it job after job. This blade is even suited to making rip cuts, often achieving a smoother finish than dedicated ripping blades.

Contractors, construction workers, and avid do-it-yourselfers will want to keep this blade on hand for varying jobs that call for making rips and crosscuts in both hardwoods and softwoods. Appropriate application materials include oak, pine, plywood, pressure-treated lumber, and beams.

Produces Smooth, Quiet Cuts with Laser-Cut Kerf
The Freud D1244X's clean-cutting design means that you can enjoy the comfort of smooth performance. The thin 0.98-inch kerf between the blade's 40 ATB (alternate-top bevel) teeth is laser cut to provide ease of feed, so you have more control over the blade's position. This helps maximize both the accuracy of the cut and the efficiency of your work, so you enjoy a job well done and the ability to complete more tasks in less time.

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So you can count on it over the long term, the Freud D1244X is designed for durability. The blade's hardy teeth are protected by Freud's exclusive shock-resistant TiCo Hi-Density Carbide formula, which helps fight wear and tear and maintains blade sharpness up to four times longer than standard carbide. And protecting the blade is Perma-Shield Non-Stick Coating that provides resistance to heat and corrosion.

Fits Miter Saws
The Freud D1244X is a great addition to your workshop because it's designed with the versatility to fit a variety of miter and sliding miter saws.

This product is covered by Freud's Limited Lifetime Warranty.

What's in the Box
Freud D1244X Diablo 12-Inch General Purpose Saw Blade.


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